Checklist for Puppy Owners
Signature K-9 Behavior & Training

Vet Visit:
Take your dog to the vet within 48 hours for an exam and to discuss inoculation schedules, spay/neuter procedures, fleas and other pests, heartworm and other worms; exposure to dangerous disease situations. Make a list of any questions you have and ask your vet. Your vet should become your first line of defense if a problem occurs. Most vets are glad to answer initial questions over the phone to determine if it is necessary to take your dog in to the vet’s office.
Socialization:
Get your dog as much life experience as possible. The easiest time for a puppy to learn to accept other people is up to 12 weeks. Introduce pups to as many people as possible. Take your puppy as many places as possible. These experiences build a foundation for the puppies whole life.  Making effort here pays big dividends later.
House Training:
Remember, puppies do not have complete control of their bodily functions. Harsh discipline for accidents will not help the problem; in fact it could cause bigger problems in the future.  Maintain a schedule on food, drink, and bathroom time. Keep a log of when puppies eat, drink, sleep, and eliminate. The log will soon show you a pattern.  Read the information we have given regarding house training.
Food:
Use a good grade of naturally preserved food. Feed on a schedule. We feed adult dogs two times a day. They seem more content on two feedings than one. Feeding time is one of the most enjoyable times of the day for your dog. It establishes you as the provider of great enjoyment and control over one of their most cherished activities. If you decide to change dog food, change food slowly. If diarrhea occurs, you may be changing too fast.
Water:
Puppies must have water. The hardest decisions we make are about when and how much water to give to puppies during house training. Some puppies will drink water until they explode if you let them.   You may want to discuss this topic with your vet.
Puppy PreSchool:
Check with your vet about how old your pup should be before coming into contact with other dogs at a puppy class. Usually, a 10 to 12 week old puppy can go to class if he/she is up to date on inoculations.
Dog License:

Don’t forget to check on when your pup must be licensed.

Registration:

If applicable, remember to send in your AKC or UKC registration.

Identification:
We recommend that you consider having your dog tattooed or micro chipped so that if lost, your chances of recovery are increased.  Check with your vet.
Rides in Cars:
If possible start with short rides. Make the ride and the destination as positive as possible….i.e. don’t just take the dog in the car when it is time for shots…
Grooming:
Our adult dogs are bathed, have nails trimmed, and ears cleaned every 4 to 8 weeks depending on the individual dogs needs. Nails must be checked more often. Brushing should be done on an as needed basis….If you don’t want to do this stuff yourself, shop for a groomer that likes dogs and that you are comfortable with.. Some groomers operate like an assembly line with little consideration for the animal.  Groomer prices also vary so you might want to shop around.  When you are playing with or petting your puppy, make it a point to check for problems. Also, handle all body parts so the dog gets comfortable with the idea.
Chewing:
All dogs chew.  We think chewing is one way they deal with their anxiety. The trick is to provide things that are ok to chew. Do not give old shoes, gloves, etc. Dogs can’t tell the difference between an old show and a new one…so its easier to give them things that they can easily identify as their toys.  Although there is no such thing as a perfectly safe chew toy, we like nylon and rubber chew toys. They last a reasonable time and can be purchased with different degrees of hardness depending on how hard your dog chews. Watch carefully if you give your dog stuffed toys with squeakers. If you find your pup chewing on something you don’t want them to, you might consider using a bitter spray or jelly….it usually deters them.
Training:

For you and your dog to make the best of your companionship, it is important to get your dog into a training program with a knowledgeable professional trainer. We suggest that you start shopping early. You want someone with some experience and who can explain their training approach.  Look for someone who seems to really like dogs  and who you feel comfortable talking with and asking questions.  It is also in your best interest to find a trainer who you can contact and discuss situations that come up with your dog as he matures.

Training can be done in small groups, in individual private lessons, or in residential programs where you leave your dog with the trainer for a period of time in which the dog is trained and then you take follow up lessons with your trained dog. Any of these approaches will work under the right circumstances with the right people involved. Although some people will take a position that one way is better than another, we find that your budget for training and the time you have available to work closely with the dog during the early training period are important factors to consider when making a training decision.  Check the yellow pages, Internet, veterinarian referral, word of mouth, and other sources available and talk with several possibilities. You will learn a lot just listening to their approaches and hopefully you will find a trainer you like that fits your budget and time schedule.

Rituals:
Dogs respond well to regular schedules. They will seem easier to get along with if you set regular times for meal times, bed times, outside times, play times, etc.
A Safe House:
Baby proof your house for a pup just like you would for a human baby. Also, don’t leave a pup unsupervised and expect things to go well. Dogs should become very consistent over significant time before they are left along unsupervised…To leave a pup or adolescent dog loose in a house or apartment while away is just asking for trouble.  Consider using a crate or cage for the dog.
Crates:
Think of a crate as a den for your dog. A private place that the dog can seek when they want privacy or that you can use for your dog when you need a break or when you will be away. If introduced properly, the dog will feel comfortable. Crates are also helpful in house training.
Exercise:
Dr. Ian Billinghurst, a vet new on the international horizon with regard to feed and exercise, believes that 20% of skeletal problems including hip Dysplasia, is genetic based and 80% is management oriented. He specifically states that puppies should only exercise in puppy play and eating. Puppies should not be forced to exercise beyond the point that they willingly participate. They should not be taken for long boring walks.  They should also not be allowed to participate in wrestling with other dogs, particularly big dogs.  They should be prevented from participating in exercise which would produce high impact on their joints.
Contract:
Read your purchase or adoption contract, understand all of its provisions. Keep receipts, etc necessary to verify that you have done the things you agreed to do.